Malagouzia, a native Greek grape, has gone from obscurity to celebrity. Revived by the Gerovassileiou Estate winery, it’s now cultivated throughout Greece and produces wines that are growing in popularity abroad, but also in Greece. Niki Mitarea reports.

The wine glasses are set on the table. Next to them, a bottle of Malagouzia stands in a wine cooler waiting to be poured. Malagouzia is a vibrant gold that seems to sparkle when the glass is held up to the light. Its fresh taste carries just enough of the summer sun to warm the overcast, wintry day. The wine also tastes of summer, tingling the palate with the aromas of citrus, lemon, and ripened fruits like mango and slight floral or peach notes. Color and aroma bring to mind a single word: refined.
Malagouzia is a Greek varietal. This white grape originated in the area of Nafpaktos on the northern rim of the Gulf of Corinth and has been described by oenologist Stavroula Kourakou as “the forgotten queen of Greek wine grapes”. Indeed, Malagouzia had almost become extinct when it was discovered and its cultivation revived by Vangelis Gerovassileiou, an oenologist and winemaker based in northern Greece.
“In 1975, the late Vassilios Logothetis, professor of viticulture at the University of Thessaloniki, had collected various forgotten Greek varietals, most unknown at the time, and had used them to create an experimental vineyard at Porto Carras in Halkidiki. I was a young winemaker then and as we were walking through the vineyard, the professor pointed to a vine and said ‘this is Malagouzia. I found it on a trellis.’ I tasted some grapes and realized their potential. I later made Malagouzia at Porto Carras and I liked it; I still recall the aromas of lemon and citrus,” says Gerovassileiou. He adds that the vines were multiplied in 1976 and thus saved. “A few years later, the Wine Institute expressed interest in the varietal and I gave them some shoots. These were given in turn to Thanassis Parparoussis who gave some to Roxani Matsa,” he adds referring to two other Greek winemakers.
That quiet stroll through the vineyards has marked Gerovassileiou’s career as an oenologist, placing him in the vanguard of the renaissance of Greek winemaking. He recalls his efforts through his own winery, the Gerovassileiou Estate in Epanomi, on the eastern rim of metropolitan Thessaloniki. “Malagouzia was planted in my vineyard in 1981, when the vineyard was 43 stremmas [about 10.5 acres]; today it covers 261 stremmas [about 65 acres]. The Greek market immediately embraced this wine with the lemony flavor that goes so well with Mediterranean cuisine.”
Thanks to Gerovassileiou’s appreciation for this grape, Malagouzia in the 1980s emerged as a leading Greek wine.

Malagouzia is native to Aetoloakarnania and little-known outside the region. At the height of its cultivation, Malagouzia was grown throughout the Nafpaktia region. A delicate vine that is particularly susceptible to oxidation, it didn’t have the requisite hardiness to survive without considerable attention–a factor that may have led to its gradual disappearance from farmed lands. It’s also vulnerable to humidity. “It’s a very sensitive varietal,” says Gerovassileiou.
Today, Malagouzia seems more adaptable as its cultivation has spread to other regions of Greece: Macedonia, where the Gerovassileiou Estate is located, the central mainland, Attica, and the Peloponnese. Does Malagouzia’s personality and characteristics vary according to where it’s cultivated? “It retains its classic aromatic elements, but the method of wine-making and the ages of the plants do differ. Cultivation over a number of years certainly provides greater experience. But it retains its quality everywhere,” he adds.
Malagouzia is a modem varietal whose aroma and other characteristics are perfectly compatible with current consumer trends. Indeed, Malagouzia leads native varietals in the battle of Greek wines to become known abroad and carve a niche for themselves in the export market.
“Malagouzia is a Greek grape that gives wines their yellow color and floral aroma, with hints of mint and a rich round taste that hints at peach and apricot,” says Markos Markos, sommelier at Cibus restaurant. “It goes well on the everyday table as it pairs with Mediterranean cuisine, fresh grilled fish, and white meats. It’s a good companion for an Evrytania prosciutto but also for cheeses like the Naxos graviera or katiki from Domokos.”
In the last decade, Malagouzia has made considerable inroads with both wine connoisseurs and consumers, with the number of devoted Malagouzia fans growing daily. Its appeal isn’t just among Greek wine drinkers but among non-Greeks too as Malagouzia’s popularity continues to grow abroad. Interestingly, Ktima Gerovassileiou exports its Malagouzia to Europe, the United States, Japan, Brazil, and Australia; it only recently introduced it to the Greek market.
“After Assyrtiko, it’s the varietal that has become most established abroad,” says Gerovassileiou. “I believe it will pass Assyrtiko because it has a bigger production capacity and cultivated in greater numbers.”
The wines produced from Malagouzia grapes have interesting characteristics, as they’re full-bodied yet fine, with a slightly fruit aroma accented by hints of aromatic herbs, perhaps even basil. Malagouzia can be drunk fresh but also ages well; indeed, ageing adds such complexity to its character that it may be best left to age slightly.
Gerovassileiou is not the only winemaker intrigued by this varietal. He and others have experimented with Malagouzia wines, either singly or as a blend with one or two other grapes. They’ve found that it blends well with the Greek varietal Assyrtiko as well as with the non-Greek Chardonnay.
“Malagouzia is a little acid so blending it with Assyrtiko adds body and vibrancy to the wine,” says Gerovassileiou.
Several winemakers have also experimented with a sweeter wine than that exported by the Gerovassileiou Estate.
“I believe in this varietal,” says sommelier Yannis Kaimenakis. “It could claim a leading role on the table, like the Italian grigio. Malagouzia goes nicely with a light lunch, accompanies appetizers like savory pies and stuffed vegetables or salads, but it also pairs well with mild cheeses.”