Building on over a century of family tradition, Manolis Moraitis has created one of Greece’s most promising new wineries on the Cycladic island of Paros.

Some of Greece’s finest wines are produced in the Cyclades, the largely barren, wind-whipped islands with the white-washed buildings against backdrops of azure sky and sapphire sea of travel posters and brochures. Santorini, which curls around a volcanic crater, is probably the ideal environment for growing grapes and producing great wines, and has justifiably gained an unmatched reputation in the Greek and global wine industry. The ash-rich volcanic soil combined with overnight dew from the ocean and generally arid conditions produce very concentrated grapes which, in turn, are perfect for producing the crisp, slightly acidic wines for which the island is famous. But Santorini is not the only island in the Cyclades with optimal conditions for growing vines. Paros, a sleeper in the wine industry for centuries, has emerged as another Cycladic island that produces solid wines—something known for decades to the thousands of tourists who have sampled local wines with their food while enjoying the island’s fine beaches and gorgeous setting.

Tucked away in the Naoussa, a postcard-pretty fishing village that sits at the edge of an expansive bay is an up-and-coming winery that oenophiles may wish to keep a close eye on. Here, just one hundred meters from Naoussa’s cozy harbor, is the Moraitis Winery where Manolis Moraitis, a third-generation winemaker, has begun to attract international attention with his vintages.

The Moraitis family has been known to merchants from Greece and around Europe since the late nineteenth century as it has supplied them with grapes in bulk and barrels of wine. Aside from the quality of the grapes and wine produced by Moraitis, the vineyards’ proximity to the harbor was a basic convenience: back then, large merchant ships would pull into the port and load their cargo directly from the winery and vineyards up a makeshift ramp.

When it was his turn to run the family business, Manolis Moraitis and his wide decided it was time to introduce some changes. Over the years, the Moraitis family has acquired over 350 hectares of vineyards; about 150 hectares are used by Moraitis to produce their own-label wines and the other 200 hectares used to grow grapes sold in bulk. The vineyards are planted mostly with indigenous varietals like the red Mandelaria, white multi-purpose Assyrtiko, and red and white Monemvassia grapes.

Moraitis, a modest and humble man, has a deep passion for winemaking and is preparing to introduce some of the finest wines that Greece has to offer. He spends endless hours in the vineyards, lavishing care on every single vine to make sure that grapes are growing to his satisfaction. “If I’m not out there myself, personally, then I might as well forget about making wine,”  he says. “To me, each vine is like my child. I must be there every step of the way.”

The differences in success achieved by individual winemakers, he adds, depends on how much time they spend in their vineyards and how well they understand how grapes grow and develop. Grapes are affected by the elements–climate, elevation, soil, and nutrition can alter the delicate balances that produce the grapes’ yield and flavor, so it’s vital that a winemaker be able to recognize any changes in the vines at the first sign.

Touring the Moraitis Winery, you’re not just stunned by the incredible view over the western shore of Paros but amazed at the efficiency and design of the newly-renovated facility. One section houses a small museum whose collection includes artifacts and relics reflecting traditional island culture and lifestyle. Also on the premises there is a conference hall and events room that hosts wine tastings and other activities. The hall leading to the cellar is lined by rows of barrels filled with red wines made from the Mandelaria and Monemvassia varietals. It’s the perfect backdrop for sampling the estate’s wines.

One of the pleasures of the winery tour was listening to Moraitis outline his philosophy of winemaking while tasting some of his excellent vintages. Wines, he believes, should embody the region where they were produced. Moraitis also likens the soil in which grapes are grown as their mother, adding that this is how vines should be understood. Applying this philosophy to his wines, Moraitis said he strives to produce white wines whose flavor make you feel that you are enjoying the refreshment of the Aegean–a wine that flows to the palate with simplicity and delicate flavors.

For Moraitis, the wine that ultimately captures the essence of the summer breeze wafting over the island of Paros is a combination of the Assyrtiko and Monemvassia varietals. He blends his white grape varietals and lets them ferment in stainless steel containers so that the flavors will be contained within the juice instead of being absorbed by and lost to the oak barrels. The wine is then bottled and aged for just six months before released for consumption.

The Moraitis Winery reds, he says, reflect richness and structure related to the deep culture of Paros. Grown mainly in the Cyclades, the Mandelaria is among the most concentrated grapes produced in Greece. These grapes are a deep, almost inky red in color and release amazing flavors that taste of berries and chocolate. Moraitis says that the wine they produce needs to be tamed, something achieved through oak-barrel ageing in order to refine the flavor and give it structure. The Moraitis Reserve has an incredible intensity of flavor.

The Moraitis Winery’s latest project is producing organic wines. Production levels are limited, but Moraitis believes it is well-worth trying this kind of cultivation. Making wines seems to deepen his passion and broaden his awareness and knowledge of wines, so the Moraitis Winery’s produce will certainly blossom. And as this happens, look for the Moraitis Winery to attract even more attention, in Greece and abroad.

Twist or pop?
When it comes to wine, that’s a fair question

Until fairly recently, the way you would tell a cheap wine from an expensive (read ‘good’) wine was by its top. Inexpensive, mass produced wines of lower quality came in large bottles or jugs with a twist cap. And, indeed, wineries around the world used these kinds of bottles for their productions that represented the lower tiers of their quality since cork was considered too expensive—its price has steadily risen through the years—to squander on cheaper wines. Now all that could be changing.

For centuries, winemakers have used natural cork, which is made from the Cork Oak tree, to seal wine. But like all natural products, its quality is not always consistent—something that has been a major problem for winemakers. According to the American National Beverage Association, one in every twelve bottles of wine produced from all over the world goes bad due to failed corks. Natural corks can be affected by bacteria and destroy the seal.

But not the twist cap, which offers the double advantage of an air-tight seal that can guarantee it will prevent wine from going bad and controlled quality. Now many winemakers throughout Europe and California are beginning to seal their white wines with twist caps. Selections such as Pinot Gris, Rieslings, and Alsatian whites are beginning to appear on the shelves with twist caps rather than the customary corks. But the question for winemakers is how they can convince consumers that it isn’t the cork or cap that makes the vintage but what’s inside the bottle. So if you see a wine that seems pricey, yet has a twist cap, it could be one of the new, quality wines trying to make the switch.

Oenophile’s Choice

2005 Anastasi Moschofilero
Produced from one hundred percent Moschofilero grapes grown in the region of Mantinia, this selection has one of the most pleasant floral bouquets. The aromas prepare you for a variety of citrus flavors. This simple, but yet effervescent wine has great balance of crispness and freshness that pairs well with grilled seafood, fresh greens, and mild cheeses. This is “must-have” selection for your white selections at home.

2005 Gaia ‘Notios’ Agiorgitiko
Considered one of Greece’s best winemakers, Paraskevopoulos is one of the masters when it comes to producing Agiorgitiko. His latest release of the 2005 Notios, is a young red wine that is full of life. It is loaded with intense berry flavors and carries a smooth finish. The hints of spice make it an excellent food wine that goes well with just about everything including fish and poultry. Its balance, from start to finish, make it an all around wine for everyday consumption.

Issue: Jan/Feb 2007